Bali HIGH

My brain was a big foggy stepping onto the deck overlooking the pool and front grounds there was Wayan to greet me with a cheery “good morning!”  In the kitchen I had discovered a case of water and an array of fruits.  Wayan had gone to the store and bought eggs and asked if he could prepare me some coffee, tea and banana pancakes.  What a way to start the morning!

Karya and Wayan seemed to have a plan for today so my participation was easily to enjoy the drive.  Twenty minutes up the road or so, we pulled to the side of the road and there they were.    

          

There’s something about Rice terraces that are magnificently breathtaking even in a National Geographic or Conde Nast travel magazine but there I stood before this wonderful site at Tegalalang, and in an instant I’m transported to childhood hearing my parents talk about he beauty of rice terraces in the Philippines. 

The stories each of them told my siblings and I about growing up – working in the rice fields where my Mom would take a small handful of grains fallen from their stalks for the daily meal, or my Dad as a young man in search of daily food in the flooded rice paddies where a small fish or two would be a the prize.

Okay, okay ~ somewhat sentimental but the realization of their young lives sharply contrasted to my own. Perhaps I finally understand the intent of those stories. I would have been content to sit under a tree all day long and watch the changing colors on the hillside, daydreaming, marveling at the landscape.

At Kintamani the panoramic view of Gunung Batur volcano and lake Danau Batur magnificent  The other side of the lake is Gunung Agung  a little shrouded by passing clouds. Pretty majestic.  The last eruption came in 1993 though it’s peak is fairly intact.

Wayan and I

coffee and spice plantation..

coffee roasting

QUIZ:  What is the name and source of THE most expensive coffee in Bali?

The Balinese say in the world, but let’s keep this simple!  What’s your answer?  If you are the first to get it right, I’ll share my stash with you!!  Yes, it was VERY costly.

coffee bean grinding

luwak beans

Down the road a bit is a holy spring Pura Tirta Empul built in the 10^th century whose waters gushing through the spouts are said to have magical curative powers.  

offerings to Hindu deity Indra

As I write, Papa and kadet Topo are playing with Talking Tom and Talking Carl on the ipad. They talk into it, wait for the replay and laugh. Sitting back doing my own work letting them have fun. No idea what they’re saying ~  enjoying themselves is all that matters.   Topo is not so shy anymore, as he’s singing rather comfortably lying on the marble floor.   Every once in awhile they break away to play Piano Duet which both are noticeably musical.

Topo

magic of iPad

Simple Pleasures of Balinese Life

FROG SONG AND MORE

Each morning greets with melodic bird songs, a very vocal and funny sounding cow, a zillion “cock-a-doodle do” roosters, often a light rainfall, the “uh-oh” gecko, all against the loud din of crickets and frogs. The morning smelled fresh along with burning incense of morning rituals throughout the neighborhood.  The sounds of drums, a Balinese sounding xylophone and cymbals travel across the valley.  That is gamelan, a daily and nightly occurrence.

is this a beetle or a bee?

The lush surroundings seem to never change though as with everything in life, there is change.  One of the coconut trees seems lighter in coconuts today, the papayas are ripening, as are the bananas and even a young tree is sprouting a stalk of fruit. 

there are six or more papaya trees at Frog Song

bananas coming on fast

and new ones sprouting

Offerings are placed on the property:  in front of the pool, at the feet of a statue, at the shrines back and front. 

blessing the offering

placing an offer at the front shrine

They are small young palm leaf trays or more elaborate flower shaped ones that hold five colors of flowers, an offering of food, usually rice. The person making the offering blesses the tray while reciting a prayer, sprinkles with sacred water and places a stick of incense to complete the ritual.  

Yesterday, four children came with the oldest doing the blessing and each boy had a stick of lit incense; taking turns at the various offering sites on the property.  Today, a neighbor made the offerings.

The sweeper, Wayan Tirta comes each morning to literally SWEEP.  He does more than that but he spends every day sweeping and mopping the walkways, stairs and floors in addition to sweeping the fallen palm fronds, leaves and flowers.  He also makes the flower arrangements:

~ BTW something men do more often than women.   For wedding ceremonies, the men decorate the entrance gates with fanciful palms, colorful ribbons and flowers.   Like most of the Balinese, Wayan is more than willing to offer his help smiling willingly.

In the evenings, “Papa” and one of his grandsons come to stand guard over the villa.  They spend the night in the little guard shack and take their work very seriously.    

Papa and younger grandson

with Topo

Topo the five year old was at first, very shy.  Now with the power of the iPad, I’ve won him over with Talking Carl and Duet Piano so he comes and plays for a few minutes along with Papa who apparently is a musician. 

Papa is the father of Wayan Suana, who is our main guy ~ property manager, gamelan lead drummer, banana pancake maker, fabulous cook bringing his Balinese chicken every couple of days.

Wayan and Karya

Karya is my main driver ~ I prefer and trust him to a couple of others when Karya was not available.  A taxi driver in Ubud whose primary business is countryside cycling treks was a bit too creepy for even this tough savvy traveler which is a pity since his bike tours and bikes looked pretty good.  Jody, the villa owner would ride into Ubud everyday with Wayan Suana on the back of his motorbike ~ a much braver woman than I.

When leaving the villa in the morning, we pass droves of school children in their uniforms who are gawking to catch a glimpse of the “westerner” in town then have a confused look since I’ve mistaken for Indonesian!  Hey, in Turkey many people thought I was Turkish, and in Egypt, an Egyptian.  My appearance certainly doesn’t scream American but I didn’t realize my features were so global!

The morning drive is always eventful with motorbikes, cars, trucks, villagers raking their rice laid out on tarps partly on the street..

harvesting the rice fields,

dodging fallen hillsides from the rains, women carrying laundry, offerings, palm fronds, harvested vegetables, soup pots, and array of just about anything in daily life. 

these are strong women carrying bags of rice!

There are usually groups of men preparing temple gates and women preparing food for offerings along the way to town. 

decorative gate

A delight to watch.

sunset at Frog Song

Sanur Beach Break

A couple of hours on the beach at Sanur, near Kuta though where the locals hang out.  

check out Susie's coconut!

funny potato chips

Fly Cafe lunch,
YUM!

favored beer

green coconuts