Past exploration: In Search of Christmas

PARIS TO MUNCHEN, NUREMBURG & ROTHENBURG

Now this was interesting...four travelers,  two vegans, in an ultraviolet Mercedes sedan, the only German/French speaking person in the bunch, spending time in Paris then headed through southern Germany and Bavaria on the road to opening evening of the Christkindlmarkt in Nuremburg.  Along the way we stopped in smaller towns where the Gluhwein flowed generously and spicy lebkuchen scented the evening air for the evening is when it all begins.  The massive Christkindlmarkts of Munchen and Rothenburg are impressive no doubt, though may lack the community feel of tiny Frieburg and Wiesbaden.

Opening night in Nuremburg brought out tour busses galore and never before had I experienced the crushing of folks against one another. Finally I heard the voice of my travel partner, Susie who is much taller than I, screaming for me to grab her hand and she literally tugged at my hand until she was able to pulled me through the crowd and into an empty restaurant.  We laughed hysterically for a few minutes then composed ourselves enough to order a hot cocoa and waited until the Tannenbaum was lit the crowds began to disperse.  Our vegan friends were entertaining.  It's tough to be a vegan where street food is based in bratwurst & brotchen, and meat is everywhere!  One much more committed to his food choices, really got fed up, stormed out when he learned the potatoes he ordered were sauteed in bacon grease and topped with crisp bacon.  Susie and I chuckled under our breath and enjoyed the extra side of perfectly bacon fatted flavorful potatoes. Ah, heaven!

Rothenburg, a medieval walled town merrily dedicated to the spirit Christmas so if you love the Christmas season, Germany is the place to be.  It's fun, jovial, spirited and celebratory every night in the streets with folks of all ages.  Enjoy some Gluhwein, have a lebkuchen heart iced with your name, try the traditional burnt French peanuts and other sugared nuts, or marvel at gigantic Schneeball pastry and Stollen.  Oh yea, buy some handcrafted olive wood ornaments too!